Polymer Clay Photo Holder: A Simple Desk Project

If you can roll a ball, you can make a polymer clay photo holder. The whole project is one chunky lump of clay with a flat base and a slot across the top that grips a photo, postcard or note card upright on a desk.

Two shapes are covered here: a rounded dome and a small cube. Both rely on weight low down and a wide base to keep the card standing. The slot is the only precise part, and it takes one press of a blade.

What you need

• Polymer clay, about one standard small block per holder
• A tissue blade
• A ceramic tile to shape and cure on
• An acrylic roller or a small flat-bottomed object for pressing
• A piece of thin card, the same weight as the photos you plan to display
• Aluminum foil, if you want a lighter core
• Fine wet-and-dry sandpaper

Dome, cube or something else?

Any compact shape with a flat base will work.

Shape	How to form it	Stability	Notes
Dome	Press a ball onto the tile	Very good	The easiest shape and the most forgiving
Cube	Tap a ball on six sides	Good	Corners need patience to keep crisp
Pebble	Flatten a ball into a low oval	Very good	Low and wide, suits larger cards
Tall cone	Roll a ball to a point	Poor	Top-heavy once a card is added; best avoided

For a standard small photo, a dome about 2 inches (5 cm) across and a little over 1 inch (3 cm) high is a good size. A cube about 1.5 inches (4 cm) on each side suits a small note card.

Form the dome

1. Condition the clay thoroughly. Any air folded into the middle can expand during curing and leave a crack or a blister on the surface.
2. Roll a smooth ball. Roll the clay between your palms with firm, circular pressure until there are no creases or seams. A fold line that is visible now will not disappear later. The guide to basic polymer clay shapes covers how to get a crease-free ball.
3. Press it onto the tile. Set the ball down and push straight down with your palm until the bottom spreads into a flat base. Stop when the dome is about two-thirds of the height of the original ball.
4. Refine the curve. Smooth the sides with light upward strokes of your fingers. Check from the side that the dome is not leaning.
5. Test the base. Lift the dome with the blade, set it on a flat surface and tap it gently. If it rocks, press it down again.

For the cube, start with the same ball and tap it on the tile on one side, then the opposite side, and keep rotating through all six faces. Use light taps; heavy pressure on one face bulges out the others.

Cut the slot

The slot has to be narrow enough to grip the card and deep enough to hold it upright.

1. Find the center line. Hold the tissue blade across the top of the dome, above the middle, and look straight down to check it sits centered.
2. Press straight down. Push the blade into the clay to a depth of about 3/8 inch (1 cm). Keep it vertical. For the cube, cut parallel to one pair of sides.
3. Open the slot slightly. Rock the blade a tiny amount from side to side. One small rock is enough for thin card.
4. Lift out cleanly. Pull the blade straight up without twisting.
5. Test with card. Slide your test card into the slot. It should stand without wobbling and pull out without dragging clay with it.
6. Repair the shape. Pressing the blade in usually squashes the dome a little. Reshape the sides gently, then recheck the slot has not closed up.

For a card that leans back slightly, tilt the blade a few degrees toward the back as you press. Keep the tilt small, because a card that leans too far shifts its weight behind the base.

Decorate before curing

A plain dome in one strong color looks good as it is. If you add more, keep it away from the slot.

• Press a pattern into the sides with a ball stylus, a toothbrush or crumpled foil. The guide to texture techniques with everyday tools shows what each one leaves behind.
• Roll two colors together into a loose marble before forming the ball.
• Press tiny flattened dots of a second color into the surface until they sit level.

Wipe away fingerprints with a light stroke of a fingertip before the piece goes to cure.

Cure the holder

Thick, solid pieces are where curing instructions matter most. Requirements differ between manufacturers and between product lines, and many wrappers give guidance that depends on the thickness of the piece. Read the instructions for your own clay and follow them exactly, using the thickest part of the holder as your reference.

Leave the holder on its tile so the base stays flat. Put a separate oven thermometer beside it, since oven dials can be inaccurate, and tent the piece loosely with foil to shield the top from direct heat. Keep the room ventilated. Afterwards, let the holder cool completely before touching it; a thick piece holds heat far longer than a thin one. For the full setup, see the guide on how to cure polymer clay.

Finish and fix

If the base rocks after curing, lay a sheet of wet-and-dry sandpaper on a flat tile, wet it and rub the base over it in a figure-eight motion until it sits level. A matte surface suits this project, but if you prefer a sheen, read about matte, satin and gloss finishes, check the product label and test on a scrap first.

• The card falls forward: the slot is too shallow. On the next holder, press the blade deeper.
• The card leans or flops: the slot is too wide. Fold a small strip of paper into the slot beside the card as a shim, and rock the blade less next time.
• The holder tips over: the base is too narrow for the card. Make a lower, wider shape, or display a smaller card.
• A crack appeared on the surface: air was trapped inside, or the ball had a fold line. Condition longer and roll until the ball is seamless.